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Za Chiyambi Ndi Kusankha Kwa Shirt ya Aloha

ALOHA SHIRT Dzina Loyamba

ALOHA SHIRT nthawi zambiri amatchedwa HAWAIIAN SHIRT ku Japan.Izi zili choncho chifukwa dzina la HAWAIIAN SHIRT lokha limachokera ku zinthu za kimono zomwe zinabweretsedwa ndi anthu a ku Japan omwe anasamukira ku Hawaii m'ma 1930.Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1930, sitolo ya zovala za ku Japan ku HONOLULU, Hawaii (MUSASHI SHYODEN.Ltd. - Musashi Shop) inapanga malaya oyambirira a ku Hawaii pogwiritsa ntchito nsalu zotsalira za kimono zotumizidwa kuchokera ku Japan kuti zigwiritsidwe ntchito ndi a Japan diaspora ku Hawaii.Pambuyo pake, wabizinesi waku China ELLERY Chun adafunsira dzina la malonda (ALOHA SPORT WEAR) mu 1936 ndi chizindikiro (ALOHA SHIRT) mu 1937. Pambuyo pazaka 20, dzina lachizindikiro ALOHA SHIRT linali laumwini, ndipo dzina lakale (HAWAIIAN SHIRT--- -) yakhala ikugwiritsidwa ntchito pakati pa anthu a ku Japan, choncho yakhudzanso chizolowezi cha ku Japan chochitcha HAWAIIAN SHIRT.

ALOHA SHIRT ngati mwasokonezeka pakusankha, choyamba pangani zolemba kuchokera ku nsalu!

Kuyambira kubadwa kwa ALOHA SHIRT mpaka kuchuluka kwa nsalu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito masiku ano, dongosololi liyenera kukhala: Cotton/chemical fiber/RAYON/silika (Silk material, yolondola kwambiri ALOHA anabadwa m'zaka zoyambirira za Ajapani omwe anasamukira ku Hawaii kuti asinthe SHIRT yakumadzulo pogwiritsa ntchito kimono, ndipo kimono yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ndi silika wopangidwa ndi silika ALOHA MASHITI, ndiye kuti, silika ALOHA SHIRT imatchedwanso malaya a silika Aloha Ndiwo malaya apamwamba kwambiri a ALOHA.

Kuphatikiza apo, ndi kuchuluka kwa kufunikira kwa ALOHA SHIRT ku Hawaii chifukwa chakukula kwa zokopa alendo, zida zosiyanasiyana zosakanikirana ndi hemp zawonekeranso munsalu yake, kupanga.ALOHA SHIRTosakhala ndi mawonekedwe apadera apadera, komanso amakhala ndi mitundu yambiri yamitundu yazinthu.

Tsopano ALOHA SHIRT mu nsalu zosiyanasiyana ndi chithumwa chake chapadera.

Nsalu ya ALOHA SHIRT ya zinthu zachifumu za RAYON

"Pankhani ya ALOHA SHIRT nsalu, RAYON imakhudzidwa mwachindunji, ndipo RAYON imagwirizana kwambiri ndi ALOHA SHIRT."
Pamwamba pa nsalu ya RAYON imakhala yoterera, yopendekera komanso yolemera, yosunthika ndi mphepo komanso utoto wolimba.RAYON ndi zinthu zopanga kupanga ku United Kingdom mu 1891, chifukwa ili pafupi kwambiri ndi nsalu zabwino za silika za anthu aku Britain (palinso zida za RAYON zopangidwa kuti zilowe m'malo mwa silika zitha kupangidwa mochulukirapo komanso motsika mtengo), thupi ndi labwino komanso lotsika mtengo komanso lolimba.M’zaka za m’ma 1940 ndi m’ma 1960, ALOHA SHIRT ankagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ku United States popanga zovala zausilikali ndi anthu wamba, zomwe zinalinso nthawi ya ALOHA SHIRT, motero zinthu za RAYON zinakhalanso nsalu yoimira malaya a Aloha m’nthawi yake.Masiku ano VINTAGE (zonse zakuthupi ndi zakale) malaya a ALOHA amapangidwa kuchokera ku zida za RAYON nthawi zambiri.

Mashati aku Hawaii Aloha Shirts
Mashati aku Hawaii (2)

Mitundu ya nsalu ya RAYON

Nthenga ziwiri ----------- Mizere yopingasa (yoyimirira) ndi yokhotakhota (yopingasa) imakonzedwa ndi njira yopingasa komanso yowongoka ya nsalu (yoluka mwathyathyathya) ya ulusi wautali wa RAYON (ulusi wopyapyala wopitilira).Pamwamba pamakhala wosalala komanso wolemera pakuwala, ndipo ali ndi mawonekedwe akumverera kofewa kwa thupi.
Nthenga ziwiri ndizofanana ndi nsalu zofewa kwambiri komanso zoyera.Ku Ulaya ndi ku United States, silika woyera weniweni amatchedwa "Habutae" mu Chingerezi.RAYON (nsalu yoyera ya RAYON yofanana ndi silika yoyera) ngati nthenga ziwirizi zinkagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pa malaya a ALOHA m'ma 1940 ndi koyambirira kwa zaka za m'ma 1950, makamaka muzinthu za ALOHA SHIRT.
FUJIET ---------- The warp (vertical) imapangidwa ndi RAYON yaitali fiber, ndipo weft (yopingasa) imapangidwa ndi RAYON short fiber (short cut waste fiber ------, mtengo- kuchepetsa njira yogwiritsira ntchito zinyalala), yomwe ilinso nsalu yowongoka komanso yowongoka (yokhotakhota).Chifukwa RAYON fiber palokha ndi yopyapyala kwambiri, ngakhale ulusi wambiri waufupi umagwiritsidwa ntchito, nsalu pamwamba pake siili yosiyana kwambiri ndi nsalu ziwiri za RAYON za utali wonse wa ulusi, ndipo ndizotsika mtengo kuposa nsalu ziwiri za RAYON ndipo zimatha. apangidwe pamtengo wotsika.
Chifukwa weft amapangidwa ndi ulusi waufupi, nsalu yokhayo imakhala yochuluka kuposa nsalu ziwiri za RAYON.Chifukwa kumverera kuli pafupi kwambiri ndi FUJI SILK, yotchedwa FUJIET.
FUJIET idagwiritsidwa ntchito pa malaya a ALOHA kuyambira m'ma 1950s.ALOHA SHIRT ya Duke Kahanamoku imapangidwa pafupifupi FUJIET.
thonje wopukutira pakhoma ----------- Wopingasa (molunjika) amapangidwa ndi ulusi wosapindika (ulusi wosapindika), ndipo ulusi (wopingasa) umapangidwa ndi ulusi wapakhoma (ndi mzere waukulu ngati axis ndi ulusi wokhuthala wopindika pamenepo), ndipo nsalu yomweyo imapangidwa ndi ulusi wowongoka ndi weft.
Pamwamba pake pali mawonekedwe a concave-convex.Chifukwa chotupa choterechi ndi chofanana kwambiri ndi wallpaper, chimatchedwa WALL SILK mu Chingerezi.
Poyambirira, mtundu uwu wa nsalu za concave ndi convex nsalu zimachokera ku Japan, zinthu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ku Japan ndi silika, Japan yokha, yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito mu kimono, ndi mtundu wa nsalu zapamwamba za kimono zomwe zimawonetsera mwadala kukongola kwa concave ndi convex ndi kumva.
Njira yopangira nsalu yomweyi idagwiritsidwanso ntchito ku Hawaii chapakati pa zaka za m'ma 1930 ndi koyambirira kwa 1950 malonda apakati pa Japan ndi United States atatsegulidwanso (malonda adayima pambuyo pa nkhondo yapakati pa Japan ndi United States), koma nsalu yotchinga ndi khoma zopangidwa ndi RAYON ulusi zinkagwiritsidwa ntchito pa malaya a ALOHA okhala ndi ma kimono achijapani.
Popeza pamwamba ndi ofanana ndi concave ndi convex tanthauzo la wallpaper, njira imodzi yokha ingagwiritsidwe ntchito pamanja pamanja utoto, kotero amisiri pamanja sangathe kuonetsetsa kuti ndalama pamanja akupitiriza kukwera, pamodzi ndi kupita patsogolo kwa kupanga mafakitale ambiri, monga nsalu sizikuwonekanso pambuyo pa zaka za m'ma 1960.
ALOHA SHIRT ya RAYON imakhalanso ndi kufooka.Ndiko kuti, padzakhala shrinkage yomwe imakhudzidwa ndi njira yoyeretsera, ndipo shrinkage imakhala yovuta kwambiri.Choncho ndi bwino kugwiritsa ntchito ndalama zambiri kutumiza ku malo apadera ochapa zovala kuti ayeretsedwe.Ngati mumadziyeretsa, pondani mofatsa momwe mungathere.
Palinso "Sindingathe kuyeretsa kovutirapo, komanso kukanda mopepuka, ndikutumiza kochapira?"Kapena kusankha "Kuchonderera kwabwino bwanji!"Anzanu, ndiye ikani mwachindunji mu makina ochapira kuti azitsuka zili bwino, koma ndi bwino kuika mu ukonde wochapira kuti nsalu zisachapike.
Ngati pali abwenzi omwe akuyenera kudziwa kuyeretsa ALOHA SHIRT ngati njira yabwino, ndiye kuti pangani mawu oyamba apadera pambuyo pake.
ALOHA SHIRT queen nsalu -- SILK
M'mbiri yaALOHA SHIRT, poyambirira anapangidwa kuchokera ku ma kimono omwe anabweretsedwa ndi anthu a ku Japan osamukira ku Hawaii.Choncho, zinthu zamtengo wapatali za kimono ndi silika wa silika, ALOHA SHIRT ya silika ndi ALOHA SHIRT yapamwamba kwambiri, komanso yoyambirira komanso yamasiku ano.Kaya ndi zovala za kimono kapena zakumadzulo, silika wakhala akusonyeza kuti ndi zinthu zapamwamba kwambiri.
Kuchokera ku chitukuko cha Kubwezeretsa kwa Meiji ku Japan mpaka kusintha kwa mafakitale, nkhondo isanayambe nkhondo ya Taisho / Showa, silika ali ndi udindo wofunikira pakugulitsa katundu ku Japan kunja kwa malonda.Ukadaulo waukadaulo waukadaulo ndiukadaulo wa silika udachokera ku China, komanso kufalikira kumayiko aku Europe, koma chifukwa cha khama ndi kulimbikira kwa amisiri aku Japan okha, zida za silika zapadziko lonse zidapangidwa koyambirira kwambiri, kuyambira nthawi ya Qing Dynasty, silika waku Japan adagulitsidwa. kubwerera ku China, wotchuka kwambiri.Chifukwa chake, silika wa ku Japan adayamikiridwa ndi akumadzulo, ndipo pambuyo pake adawonekera mu ALOHA SHIRT yokondedwa kwambiri.
Silika amapangidwa ndi zinthu za silika, motero amangopaka utoto pamanja, motero mtengo wake ndi wokwera.Mashati a ALOHA (ndi zovala zina) zopangidwa ndi silika zidapangidwa mwachizolowezi kuyambira m'ma 1930 mpaka m'ma 1950.
Chifukwa chake, zinthu za VINTAGE ndizosowa kwambiri komanso zokwera mtengo kwambiri, ndipo ndizovuta kuti mitundu yamasiku ano yobereketsa igwiritse ntchito nsalu zotere popanga.Nthawi zina pamakhala zojambula zamtundu, mtengo wake siwotsika ndipo chiwerengerocho ndi chochepa kwambiri, kotero kugwiritsa ntchito njira zakale zoluka za silika zojambula za ALOHA SHIRT zimatha kutchedwa ALOHA SHIRT zojambula zabwino kwambiri.
Kumverera kwa khungu la nsalu ya silika ndikwabwino kwambiri, monga zovala zamkati kuyambira kale ku China komanso ngakhale olemekezeka aku Europe ndi America amakonda, silika ndi zinthu zachilengedwe zoyera, kotero anthu omwe ali ndi vuto la khungu amathanso kugwiritsa ntchito, zinthu za silika zimakhala ndi kuwala kowuma komanso mphamvu yopumira kwambiri. , kuwala kwa dzuwa kwa chilimwe kumatha kuteteza khungu panthawi imodzimodziyo youma komanso yopuma.Izi sizingasinthidwe ndi zinthu zina zilizonse.
Kufooka kwa zinthu za silika ndikuopa kukokoloka kwa thukuta, kotero kumafunika kutsukidwa nthawi zonse, ndizovuta kwambiri komanso zovuta kusamalira zinthu, njira yoyeretsera imakhalanso yovuta, yosavuta kudyedwa ndi tizilombo, ndi kusungirako mankhwala othamangitsira tizilombo ndikofunikira.Monga mkazi wosakhwima yemwe akufunika kusamalidwa.
Mpaka pano, pali ambiriALOHA SHIRTnsalu ---- thonje loyera
Thonje ndi chinthu chabwino kwambiri.Zida zomwezo ndizosavuta kugula zambiri, malaya a ALOHA opangidwa ndi thonje ndi otsika mtengo komanso ochulukirapo.Zokhalitsa komanso zosavuta kuyeretsa mwakufuna kwanu.Kuphatikiza apo, ndiabwino kwambiri kuposa RAYON ndi silika mu thukuta lopukuta.
Pali pafupifupi palibe kufooka, ngati kufooka, kuwonjezera shrinkage yemweyo ndi makwinya, ndiko kuti, patapita nthawi yaitali ntchito ndi kuyeretsa pambuyo kuzirala mtundu kuposa zipangizo zina, koma anthu ena amaganiza kuti izi ndi kukoma.
ALOHA SHIRT ya zinthu za thonje inayamba kubadwa pakati pa zaka za m'ma 1950 ndipo tsopano ndi nsalu ya ALOHA SHIRT, yomwe makamaka inabadwira ku United States chifukwa cha chikoka cha ALOHA SHIRT.Pambuyo pake, madera omwe apainiya a ALOHA SHIRT monga Hawaii adayamba kupanga zinthu zotsika mtengo kwambiri kuti asinthe zinthu zodula kwa anthu.
Mashati a ALOHA amatha kugulidwa pafupifupi kulikonse masiku ano, kuphatikizapo ku Hawaii, koma ambiri amapangidwa ndi thonje ndipo ndi amakono.Ngati mukufuna kugula chitsanzo cha ALOHA SHIRT kuyambira zaka za m'ma 1950, mutha kugula chitsanzo cha ALOHA SHIRT / kumaliza / ndi chitsanzo cha malaya oyambirira a American Aloha mu thonje pokhapokha mutasankha mitundu yosiyanasiyana.
Ndigule mtundu wanji wa ALOHA SHIRT?
Kuphatikiza pa nsalu zomwe tazitchula pamwambapa, pali malaya a ALOHA opangidwa ndi zinthu zophatikizika monga ulusi wamankhwala.Popeza kuti sichinawonekere m'zaka zamtengo wapatali za ALOHA SHIRT ku United States m'mbuyomo, amagwiritsidwa ntchito m'malaya osiyanasiyana amaluwa ofanana lero (malaya amaluwa wamba ofanana ndi amayi apakati ndi okalamba ku China), si mawu oyamba achidule.
Kotero ngakhale mutagula ALOHA SHIRT yeniyeni, choyamba muyenera kuganizira zinthu ziwiri:
1) Ndimakonda zitsanzo zamakono komanso zopezeka paliponse (zowona za ku Hawaii).
2) Kondani chitsanzo cha ALOHA SHIRT ndi mtundu wa zaka zakale za golidi za ku America.
Pambuyo posankha 1) kapena 2) pamwambapa, ganizirani kusiyana pakati pa nsalu ndi kusiyana kobisika kumbuyo komwe kumayimiridwa ndi nsalu iliyonse.Ndipotu, pali zosiyana zambiri zobisika, makamaka m'mbuyomu pamene ALOHA SHIRT inali yotchuka kwambiri ku United States.
------------------ ndi chikhalidwe cha ku Japan.Monga: carp, Mount Fuji, ndi zina zotero zosabwerezabwereza.Zonsezi zimachokera ku ma kimono achikhalidwe achi Japan.
Chingwe cha kumadzulo --------------------------------------------------------Monga: woimira kwambiri ndi chitsanzo cha maluwa a ku Hawaii, chinanazi, mtengo wa kokonati ndi zina zotero.
プ ル オ ー バ ー ----------KUKONZA.Ndi mtundu wa kukokera.
Kenaka, tidzapitiriza kufotokoza chimodzi mwa mfundo zazikulu za "mabatani" a ALOHA SHIRT.
Kulankhula za "batani" kumakhalanso ndi gawo lofunikira mu chithumwa cha ALOHA SHIRT.Palinso mitundu yambiri ya mabatani omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pa malaya a ALOHA.Mabatani osiyanasiyana amapanga mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana a ALOHA SHIRT.
Mabatani odziwika bwino ndi: nsungwi / kokonati / chipolopolo / zitsulo, ndi zina zotero. Masiku ano, pali magalasi a urea / organic.Mabatani azinthu zomwezo ali ndi kukula ndi mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana, ndipo mitundu yosiyanasiyana imamva mosiyana.Chofunika kwambiri ndi chakuti mabatani amasiyana nthawi ndi madera osiyanasiyana, ndipo mabatani pa malaya a ALOHA ndi osiyana malinga ndi nthawi yomwe malaya a Aloha anagulitsidwa.Katswiri wa tsankho la ALOHA SHIRT amatha kuwonetsa nthawi yopanga ALOHA SHIRT kutengera mabatani.
Zotsatirazi ndizo mitundu yayikulu ndi mawonekedwe a mabatani
nsungwi -------------- Kugwiritsa ntchito nsungwi yokhala ndi minyewa yokhuthala, yopangidwa ndi mchenga komanso yogwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi yayitali idzawoneka yonyezimira.Kuchulukana kwa minofu pafupi ndi muzu wa nsungwi ndikwambiri.Mitundu yachikhalidwe yaku Japan ya ALOHA SHIRT m'zaka za m'ma 1950 idagwiritsa ntchito kwambiri batani la nsungwi, chifukwa nsungwi imodzi imatha kugwiritsa ntchito muzu, kuchuluka kwa mabatani omwe amasonkhanitsidwa siakulu, ndipo njira yopukutira mabatani ndi yamanja kwathunthu, chifukwa chake idangogwiritsidwa ntchito pa ALOHA. SHIRT isanafike 1930 mpaka pakati pa 1950.
Kokonati --------------- Mabatani opangidwa kuchokera ku coconut kutembenuka nawonso ndi mabatani omwe amapezeka kwambiri.Zakuthupi ndizosavuta kusema masitayelo osiyanasiyana ndi makulidwe osiyanasiyana.Opanga ma ALOHA SHIRT aku Hawaii kuyambira m'ma 1930 mpaka 1950 adagwiritsa ntchito batani ili makamaka pa malaya a ALOHA okhala ndi maluwa akumadzulo.
Chipolopolo -------------- Pogwiritsa ntchito chipolopolo chagulugufe choyera/chipolopolo chagulugufe wakuda chinatuluka mabatani, owoneka bwino komanso kunyezimira kokongola.Ankagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pa malaya achijapani achikhalidwe chakumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1930 ndi malaya a ALOHA opangidwa ndi silika nkhondo itatha.Amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu lamba wamtengo wapamwamba wa SHIRT.Zowonjezereka kwambiri ndi mabatani omwe amadetsa zipolopolo kuti azitha kuzindikira mtundu wapadera.
Mabatani azitsulo ---------------- Mabatani azitsulo.Pamwamba pa batani nthawi zambiri amapangidwa ndi nkhope yakale ya ndalama / wankhondo / Mfumu KAMEHAMEHA (Mfumu ya ku Hawaii) / heraldry etc. Kuyambira pakati pa zaka za m'ma 1950, kuti awonjezere chikumbutso ndi kugwirizanitsa malingaliro apamwamba, ali akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito pa nsalu za silika (silika) ndi malaya a ALOHA okhala ndi zinthu zina zachikumbutso.


Nthawi yotumiza: Jan-04-2024